Heavenly Heidelberg

Well, it's snowing here AGAIN! I feel like this is the never-ending winter. Just a few days ago I was outside enjoying the sunshine and warmth and today it's frigid and sunless. If I've learned anything from living here it's that you can't let the weather change your plans or you'll be stuck inside the house for weeks. We woke up to a cold, rainy day on Saturday but we forged ahead with our plan to go to Heidelberg. Thank goodness we did because as the miles passed, the clouds broke and the temperatures warmed. The weather was beautiful in Heidelberg for the whole weekend!

The location we're in makes it easy to miss the rest of Germany because it's so convenient to just focus on Belgium and the Netherlands since they're so close. This year we've resolved to venture to the Bavarian part of Germany and really try to see the rest of the country outside of this triangle. Another good reason to stay in Deutschland is because I'm halfway through my German language course and I need the practice. I think German is a complicated language. I'm having a lot more trouble with it than I remember having while learning French but that could be because I was in college and accustomed to being a student. Maybe I'm just lazy now.

Anyway, back to Heidelberg. We didn't stay in the city center because hotel prices were exorbitant. Our hotel (Elite Hotel) was an easy 10-minute walk from the center and considerably cheaper. It was in a residential area and I generally prefer that because I think it's more charming to stay where people actually live. The only drawback was parking. The hotel gave us a permit for street parking but all of the spots were taken by residents. Cars were lined up on both sides of the hotel's one-way street. The cross streets were also einbahnstrasse and the only way to get to them was to go all the way out to the main road and then come back up, effectively resulting in missing any spots that might have become available on the original one-way street. Confusing? Yes, very.

We ended up driving around this neighborhood for 45 minutes. It was ridiculous. We kept passing a cafe on the corner and by the third or fourth time, people began looking up from their coffees and croissants, wondering why we were casing the joint. Every time we thought we saw an open spot we would race around the block and return only to find that it was handicap, not an actual parking space, or another car would be wedging itself in because it somehow mysteriously reached the spot before we were able to complete our circle. Some spots were available but it was impossible to squeeze our American-sized car in between the European-Playmobil models. We were finally able to park on a side street but not until I had spent several minutes making the European Vacation joke: "Look kids! There's Big Ben.... and there's Parliament. Again." Fortunately for me, my husband was amused.

I only tell this story to illustrate that even now, a year and a half later, we still sometimes have trouble accomplishing basic tasks. I think the difference is that a year ago we would've panicked and now we just accept certain things like getting lost and being late. It's a much more relaxing way to deal with unexpected issues. And at least now we know what einbahnstrasse means.

Our first order of business was lunch. It was a bit late due to our parking fiasco but we managed to find a nice restaurant serving up typical German fare and delicious hefeweizen. Perkeo Restaurant is named for Perkeo of Heidelberg, a famed court jester and guardian of the largest wooden wine barrel in the world. Legend says that he died at age eighty after drinking a glass of water instead of his usual wine.

My husband had shnitzel and I enjoyed a regional dish: stuffed dumplings with mozzarella au gratin. Delicious!

Heidelberg Castle ruins from the village.

Heidelberg Castle was our next stop. It looms above the streets of the village and it's hard not to keep looking up after every few steps to catch glimpses of the majestic bastion. The anticipation of reaching it starts to build as you get closer. There are two routes to choose from: a very steep, sloping hill and lots of stairs ambling along beside private residences and shrouded by trees. We chose the hill for our first ascent and it was certainly a challenge staying upright as we trudged to the top.

Steep climb to the top!

The castle was originally a medieval fort, first mentioned in 1225 in a document in which Duke Ludwig of Bavaria granted a fiefdom. Between 1400 and 1544 the fort transformed into a castle complex. Throughout the next several hundred years it went through additions, renovations, war, French occupations, lightning destruction, and, finally, restoration and preservation.

Crumbling wall!

The castle, as it was.

After a stroll through the gardens, we went back to the main courtyard to see the largest wooden wine barrel in the world. It holds over 58,000 gallons of wine. It was Perkeo's (the court jester) job to watch over the barrel and his name is said to come from the answer he always gave when asked if he wanted a drink: "Perche no?" -- "Why not?"

Yeah, it's pretty big.

We left the castle just as the sun was setting. We went to a lookout point from the castle and watched Heidelberg's red rooftops glow as the last rays of the sun lit upon them. It was magical and reminded me of the ever-changing scenery in Ireland's countryside.

Alte Brucke

We decided to race down the hill to the Alte Brucke (Old Bridge) to see the sunset over Neckar River. The bridge was crowded with couples young and old, children, and groups of friends all gazing at the view. Street musicians played lively songs and church bells tolled from the village. The experience was another of my visions of Germany before we moved here, and it was absolutely perfect.

We then stopped for a quick drink at Vetter. It's a traditional German pub with long wooden tables, bratwurst, and in-house-brewed wheat beer. Hops hang from the chandeliers and the crowd is a jovial mingling of university students, locals, and international tourists. I had a hefeweizen mixed with some sparkling wine and fresh strawberries. It sounds weird but it's extremely tasty and not as sweet as you'd imagine.

It was dark by now and we thought it would be nice to trek up to the castle one more time to see it at night. The underlying reason for our evening workout was because my husband decided to eat a huge nougat-filled ball of chocolate and he wanted to work off the calories. This time we took the stairs and all I have to say is that if you go to Heidelberg you have license to eat and drink whatever you want as long as you're planning on going to the castle and Philosopher's Walk. These little hikes put the Stairmaster to shame.

Once again, the walk was rewarding. A few others were taking advantage of the cool, pleasant temperature but it was still quiet on the castle grounds and the nighttime views of Heidelberg were lovely. We walked through the courtyard and our footfalls echoed off the stone walls. Everything was covered in shadow and the floodlights gave everything an eerie glow, making it easy to imagine what it was like when candlelight flickered from the arched windows.

It's unique to be able to see something like this at night, away from crowds and noise. In most cases you never have an opportunity to see attractions at night, much less for free! I definitely recommend a night visit to Heidelberg Castle should you ever find yourself there.


We woke early Sunday morning to tackle Philosopher's Walk. It's easy to find: just walk across the Old Bridge and you'll see a pathway marked by a small sign. The first glance is deceiving; it looks like an ordinary garden path. After a few steps the pathway veers and you find it's another steep climb to reach your destination. Things get much easier once you reach the top of the hill. Philosopher's Walk is so named because it's said that university professors and philosophers walked there for inspiration. I can certainly imagine that the lush landscape and quiet forest would provide a nice respite from the city and an opportunity to clear the mind.

Private Garden Entrance

Private, gated gardens dot the hillside. Some are overgrown while others are meticulously manicured. During our walk we saw someone tending their garden. Can you imagine?

"Honey, I'll be back in an hour. I'm going up to Philosopher's Walk to see how the thyme and basil are coming along."


Again, the views of Heidelberg are incredible and from here you can see the castle in all its glory.

We were sad to leave Heidelberg but we got out just in time. While we were walking back over the Old Bridge, the temperature dropped about ten degrees and it was soon blustery and cloudy. Despite the drastic change in weather, Heidelberg is a place that's enchanting whether it's seen under the red-tinge of sunset, in the darkness of night, or shrouded by ominous clouds.

Heidelberg, you have a piece of my heart.

Neighborly Love

I think it's pretty obvious by now how much I despise the never-ending German winter. Today has been (predictably) gloomy, rainy, and cold but not without its bright spot.

Our sidewalk is extremely long because we live on the corner. I know this is ridiculous but it typically takes me over an hour to shovel it. It's probably because I'm not accustomed to shoveling (ah, Florida) and also due to my need to make our sidewalk as pristine as the neighbors'. I don't sweep it during the warm months like a good German hausfrau so this is my penance.

Our neighbors on one side are elderly. They are usually sticklers for their sidewalk-shoveling duties but a couple times this winter I've had mine finished before they had a chance to get to theirs. By the time I reach their portion, it seems extremely tiny compared to what I've already done. If theirs hasn't been shoveled, I will usually do it for them and I consider it a boost to my calorie-burning and a good deed for my karma jar.

I think (hope) the snow might be finished this winter. Last week was the last time I had to shovel and I took care of their sidewalk twice.

Just now, my doorbell trilled and I looked out to see an elderly gentleman holding a bouquet of tulips. I didn't immediately recognize him but when I opened the door he smiled and said, "Hello, I am your neighbor. These are for you because you have shoveled our sidewalk and we thank you very much." I didn't even know they knew it was me.

I freely admit I almost teared up!

Sometimes it's hard living here, especially when you're trying to find a place within your tiny village, and acceptance among your German neighbors. I'm so grateful he came over because it made me feel like I'm part of a community. Now I don't need to feel shy anymore when I see him and his wife taking their daily strolls.

I think a bridge has been crossed-- a bridge lined with tulips.

Okay, Germany, I love you again.

Hey Y'all-- from Charleston, South Carolina

I love all of the travel opportunities available here in Europe but there are also still many places I haven't been to in America. Charleston, South Carolina has been on my To-See list for several years and I was very excited to travel there with my family while I was recently in the US.

We spent a nice weekend strolling through the city, eating delicious seafood, soaking up Southern hospitality, and visiting Magnolia Plantation and Gardens.

Our first memorable meal was lunch at a charming restaurant called 82 Queen. The weather was pleasant enough so we were seated under a magnolia tree in the enchanting courtyard. My mom ordered grilled chicken with fried green tomatoes, cheese grits, and a lowcountry crab cake. I had jambalaya with tasso ham and Carolina red rice. It rivaled any jambalaya I've had in New Orleans. Have I ever mentioned how much I miss Southern food?

Mansions along Charleston's harbor.

We spent the next few hours wandering around the French Quarter, walking along the harbor and counting dolphins, and browsing through whimsical boutiques. Charleston has an open-air shopping market filled with endless stalls of vendors selling everything from homemade pralines to handwoven sweetgrass baskets.

Before we knew it, it was time for dinner. Charleston Crab House reminded me of Fiddler's Crab House in Savannah, Georgia-- a little touristy and kitschy but worthy of mention due to crab legs so rich and succulent that they don't even need butter. To my knowledge, you can't get that in Germany.

The next morning we decided to take a half-hour drive to Magnolia Plantation and Gardens. The Plantation was founded in 1676 by the prestigious Drayton family. It was originally a rice plantation. The gardens were opened to the public in the 1870s, earning the distinction as the oldest public gardens in America.

The grounds are massive and there are many different ways to explore the rich history of the plantation. There is a boat tour, a nature train, and even a petting zoo. For time's sake, we chose to tour the gardens, the house, and the slave cabins at the edge of the property.

Row of Slave Cabins

For me, the Slavery to Freedom tour was the most interesting. While a petting zoo and nature train are all well and good, they most certainly didn't exist during Magnolia Plantation's heydays, and it doesn't make sense to visit a southern plantation and ignore the sobering fact that the plantation existed largely because of the blood and sweat of slave labor. The Magnolia Cabin Project was founded to preserve and restore five historic slave cabins that date back to 1850. Each cabin reflects a different period including slavery, Reconstruction, the Jim Crow Era, and then 1960s Civil Rights Era. As we walked through each cabin, it was very easy to picture people crowded into small lofts, sleeping on the dusty floorboards, and cooking dinner in the fireplace. In one cabin, remnants of old newspapers that were used as insulation remain affixed to the crumbling walls.

Newspaper Insulation

From the cabins we walked to the cemetery that is the final resting place of the families who worked on the plantation. It's a very serene spot, shaded by oak and cypress trees and surrounded by tranquil ponds.

Cemetery

Our house tour was still a few hours away so we passed the time wandering the gardens. Though it's only February, flowers were still blooming and canopied pathways led to views of the Ashley River and quiet cul-de-sacs with interesting sculptures and inviting benches. Unexpectedly, there's even a bamboo forest!

During the house tour we learned about the property's history of destruction. The first house was ransacked during the American Revolution. In 1865, during the Civil War, the house was destroyed by fire. The present house was constructed in the 1870s, built from a summer house (in nearby Summerville, SC) which was disassembled and floated down the Ashley River on barges to be reconstructed on Magnolia Plantation at the site of the former house.

The weather had taken a gradual turn for the worse during our time at Magnolia Plantation. When we left, it was raining and the temperature had dropped nearly ten degrees. We decided to go back to Charleston and enjoy an early dinner at an Italian restaurant downtown.

Mercato has live jazz music, an enviable wine list, and traditional Italian fare featuring local ingredients and fresh seafood. I didn't have one bad meal in Charleston!

We ended the evening with glasses of wine accompanied by a bird's eye view of Charleston, first from the rooftop of the Library Restaurant and Bar and then from the top of the Market Pavilion Hotel.

Charleston was charming and I had a wonderful time eating food you can only get it in the Deep South, being lulled by the sound of delightful southern drawls, saying, "Yes, ma'am," and, "No, ma'am," and having doors held open for me by chivalrous Southern gentleman.

I love it here, but there's no place like the South.

Missing America

I've been back in the good ol' USA for the past two weeks. It was certainly a nice reprieve from the long, German winter.

This was my second time going home in the almost year-and-a-half I've been here. Homesickness always sets in unexpectedly, like when you're sitting on the runway at JFK on a plane bound for Europe. A few days before, my two-week visit seemed almost too long but I found myself wishing I could have one last lunch with my mom, pet our dogs one more time, and have one more night's rest in my bed at home.

The first couple times I was on an international flight, hearing all of the foreign languages spoken around me was exciting. This time it was a reminder that I was going back to Germany, a place that can sometimes seem perpetually dismal and dreary and a little less friendly (and a lot less sunny) than charming Deep South America.

I found myself wondering when I would return to the home of the brave. When will I be able to exchange pleasantries with my favorite cashier at the grocery store again? From here on out it will be a curt and perfunctory "Danke" to the cashier at Rewe as I frantically collect my items and shove them haphazardly into a bag while simultaneously trying to get out of the next person's way.

Gone are palm trees and complimentary drink refills, ice cubes and my favorite Chinese buffet. I'll miss the sound of country music and the taste of boiled peanuts. An ocean away, I'm six hours ahead of my family, my best friend, and my beloved East Coast.

I felt a strong surge of patriotism for my country as I soared over New York City and thought about everything. No matter where I go in the world, and for how long and far away, I am fortunate because there's a place that always takes me back with open arms. It's worth it to leave for a while just to hear the person at passport control say, "Welcome back home."

Arrivederci, Milano!

Milanese Breakfast

The streets of Milan were quiet and deserted on New Year's morning. Our luck ran out with the pleasant weather on New Year's Eve and it was foggy and rainy with a biting wind. We managed to find a small cafe open for 'breakfast.' It's really too bad we overslept and missed our hotel's complimentary coffee and pastry selection because we paid 20 Euros for two coffees, a small piece of apple streudel, and some cookies. Did I mention how expensive Milan is?

Fashion District

After our 'breakfast' we strolled through the Quadrilatero della Moda, Milan's famous fashion district. I'm not obsessed with Gucci, Prada, Versace, and the like but it was still interesting to walk through and window shop. Although I imagine if I had 75,000 Euros at my disposal I probably wouldn't spend it all on an Armani dress.

Unfortunately all of the shops were closed until January 7th. I guess wealthy people need a really long New Year's vacation. I think it would be fun to visit when the shops are open and the beautiful, fabulous people are shopping. On one of the side streets we saw an older woman with perfectly coiffed hair, chic sunglasses, and wearing a snowy-white ensemble right down to her stark white shoes, which were somehow in pristine condition even though the streets were wet and grimy. She was walking purposefully toward an ornate apartment building and as she passed I got a whiff of her expensive perfume. I wanted to follow her and find out who she was but that would have been wrong. And creepy. It was like she had walked off a glamorous movie set from the 1950s.

The architecture was beautiful. Graceful mansions tower over streets that are lined with immaculately-manicured shrubbery. Even if you aren't absorbed by fashion and wealth, it's a very pleasant walk through the Quadrilatero della Moda. And who knows? Maybe you'll run into the woman in white and she'll invite you into her palatial apartment for some wine and divulge her secret about how she keeps her clothing so immaculate.

We were off to a late start on New Year's Day and we were well into the afternoon when the skies finally opened up into an earnest downpour. We decided to go back to the hotel and try again later. Later turned to evening because of the bad weather. We ended up walking several blocks to find a cafe that was open. We ate some paninis (by now our go-to food choice) and went to sleep early so we could take full advantage of our last day in Milan.

We'd heard about the 'canal district' so we decided to trek it over to Naviglio the next morning. The weather was still abysmal but at least it wasn't raining. Naviglio is an up-and-coming area that feels very local. We didn't have the opportunity to see it during the evening but it's known for its nightlife. In recent years it has also become a haven for artists due to low rent costs.

Naviglio, Canal District

The canals weren't as grand as Amsterdam's or as charming as Bruges' but I think those are pretty tall orders to fill. I wasn't too impressed but I think I need to reserve my opinion because we didn't see the district at night when the trendy cafes and pubs are bustling, and the weather certainly put a damper on our spirits. So if I went back to Milan, I would go to the Naviglio district for dinner to experience it the way it deserves.

Santa Maria delle Grazie

We still had a lot of time to waste because of our late flight so we decided to check in at the Santa Maria delle Grazie and see if there were any last-minute cancellations for tickets to view "The Last Supper." Since we ended up in Milan because of Blind Booking, we didn't have enough time to secure tickets. A limited number of tickets are sold per day and it's advisable to order them at least three months in advance. As suspected, we were out of luck.

Santa Maria delle Grazie is worth seeing on its own. The interior is dominated by breathtaking frescoes and we were still able to see some of da Vinci's work in the lunette in the portico.

Biblioteca Ambrosiana
courtyard, flanked by
Santa Maria delle Grazie

Located beside Santa Maria delle Grazie is the Biblioteca Ambrosiana, current home to the Atlantic Codex. It's the largest collection  of da Vinci's drawings, bound by a sculptor in the late sixteenth century. The content encompasses his thoughts of more than 40 years, from 1478 to 1519. It was really intriguing to see the pages in person. Leonardo da Vinci had an incredible mind, advanced far beyond his time. We saw drawings of everything from weather patterns to mythological monsters. The collection was impressive and thought-provoking, and I'm glad we happened upon it.

Our  next stop was the Sempione Park. Its origins go back to the 14th century. The land was originally used as a hunting ground for the Visconti. Today it's a pleasant retreat in the middle of urban sprawl. Sforza Castle flanks it on one side, and on the other is the Arco della Pace (Arch of Peace). It was built in the early 19th century to celebrate Napoleon's victories. The view from the park is impressive, even through the fog.

Arco della Pace

Sforza Castle was saved from demolition at the start of the 20th century. Today it houses art and history museums. The castle was originally constructed as a fortress. It's easy to see because of its layout: four walls with square towers at each corner. It was rebuilt in 1447 after a razing and eventually transformed into a residence.

Sforza Castle

Milan was nice. I think three days is more than enough time to see everything if you make some plans in advance. If I had it to do over again, I would make sure to get tickets for "The Last Supper," have dinner and drinks in the Naviglio district, and participate in Aperitivo.

Aperitivo is my biggest regret from our adventure in Milan. As I mentioned before, it's a very expensive city. We had a difficult time finding filling meals that were reasonably-priced. Aperitivo is basically a happy hour accompanied by lots of appetizers. It's a very Milanese thing to do and most neighborhood cafes host them. We accidentally happened in on one after we'd already had dinner. There were cheeses, olives, bruschetta, meats, potatoes, and vegetables. They typically begin around 6 or 7pm and last until 9. The atmosphere is jovial and energetic. And here's the best part: the only money you must spend to make your way around the buffet is for one drink. ONE! I definitely felt cheated for missing out on this wallet-friendly experience.

So, Milan. I don't know if we'll ever meet again and I don't think I will be too disappointed if this turns out to be the case. I must admit that I wasn't terribly impressed with the food. I think a different region of Italy might be on the menu for next time. People, in general, were kind. I loved hearing all of the Italians speaking. It really is how you imagine; lots of "Pregos!" and "Bonjournos!" Milan certainly feels like a lived-in city. Lots of tourists abound but there are also many people dressed in suits, carrying briefcases, and going to work in large, concrete buildings that smell like money.

Arrivederci, Milano!

Rooftops of Milan, from the Duomo

New Year's Eve in Milan

This year, we allowed Blind Booking to choose our destination for New Year's. I was very excited when Milan flashed up on the screen. This was my first time in Italy and I couldn't wait to try the food and see the Duomo.

Antica Locanda Leonardo courtyard.

We took a late flight in and then hopped aboard the Malpensa Express to reach our hotel. Antica Locanda Leonardo is right beside the Santa Maria delle Grazie (home to da Vinci's "The Last Supper) and a pleasant 15-minute walk to the city's center. The hotel shares a 19th century building with private apartments surrounding lovely courtyards. It was one of our best finds to date because of its price, location, and ambience.



New Year's Eve was a beautiful, sunny day. We set out to see as much as we could since many points of interest would be closed on New Year's. Milan certainly gives off a business/commerce sort of vibe. The urban streets are bustling with busy people dressed in suits, banks from every country flank the streets, and the scent of wealth and power is strong in the air. It was a refreshing change of scenery to see the grand Duomo.

Construction of the cathedral began in 1386. The building carried on throughout several centuries until its completion in 1965. Today, it's the third-largest church in Europe. The interior is breathtaking, filled with the light from stained-glass windows bouncing off intricately-designed floors. After a long gander inside, we took the stairs to the top of the Duomo. By now we've had the privilege to stand atop several churches in Europe but this was the most unique experience so far because there were no restrictions; we were literally standing on top of the rooftop spires. Unbelievable.

The Duomo sits upon the Piazza del Duomo. It's Milan's main square and is filled with tourists, peddlers, and pickpockets. We walked with our heads down, bags close, and were still surprised by how aggressively people tried to sell us bracelets and birdseed.

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele

The Gallerio Vittorio Emanuele is a magnificent glass-domed gallery filled with luxury shops. A majestic arch beckons you in from the Piazza del Duomo. Even if you aren't planning on purchasing anything or stopping for food at one of the many cafes, it's worth your time to stroll through and admire the stunning architecture. You must also take a spin on the bull's balls.

Beneath the dome, various coats of arms are depicted as a symbol of unification. There is a wolf for Rome, lily for Florence, a flag for Milan, and a bull for Turin. The tradition goes that you must put your heel on the bull's testicles and perform one spin on top of them for good luck. It isn't just a tourist trap. If you stand long enough, you'll see lots of people doing it-- including the Milanese. I was taking a photo and suddenly an older, distinguished-looking Italian gentleman stepped upon the bull, caught my eye, and spun. Then he spread his arms wide and said, "Prego!" to me. He watched as I performed the spin and, nodding satisfactorily, rejoined his wife.

Take a spin!

Milan's Christmas market was still operating and it was fun to see all of the different items for sale. It's interesting how each country's interpretation differs. I guess it's in ways you would expect. Germany has lots of bratwursts and gluhwein, Brussels provides the beer, and Italy went heavy on cheese, antipasti, and paninis. We picked up some olives and a bottle of wine to whet our appetite ahead of our New Year's Eve dinner.

Boccondivino

Reservations for dinner were difficult to come by, even almost three months in advance. We finally found a place close to our hotel, a charming restaurant with excellent reviews. Boccondivino is in a quiet area on a side street. We were the first to arrive and we received a warm welcome from the manager and a sparking glass of Prosecco. The first of many courses was the pinzimonio: a large offering of fresh vegetables dipped in olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and salt and pepper.

Pinzimonio

Soon the restaurant began filling with lots of other couples and large groups of boisterous Italians toasting each other and laughing raucously. The atmosphere was electric!

I've been to many different dinners with wine pairings. The formula is pretty standard: A glass of wine accompanies each course and it's presented by a knowledgeable sommelier who enthusiastically speaks about the flavor of the wine, its origin, and why it's the best accompaniment to the dish. The course is finished, along with the glass of wine, and the tasting moves forward with the next plate.

At Boccondivino, the process is a little different. There was still a sommelier (a delightful man with a passion for wine and a twinkle to his eyes) and there was still a pairing for every course. But instead of a glass, it was a bottle. Yes, I mean that the ENTIRE bottle of wine was left on the table for refills. We didn't really notice it with the first course but by the second one, we realized that two bottles of wine were sitting in front of us, opened and waiting to be emptied.

"That's weird," said my husband. "Do you think they mean to do that?'

We looked around and noticed that the rest of the patrons were also amassing their own stashes.

"Well, they can't possibly continue to do this for every course," I said. "Maybe you're meant to just have a couple bottles for the whole duration."

That guess was wrong. Course after course continued to arrive at our table. We had everything from cheese and pate to lard and gnocchi (not together). At some point our friendly sommelier stopped giving his eloquent speeches and just eased the next bottle in front of us along with another glass. We became great friends with the couple seated next to us and I think we were shouting in Italian by the end of everything. It wasn't a tasting; it was a downright sloshing.

Suddenly the room darkened and shouts of "Buon anno!" flooded the restaurant. Bottles of champagne were popped open and we ate lentils for good luck. The manager, who by now was red-faced and extra-jovial, shook hands with each patron and wished them a happy new year. Dessert was still on the way and it was accompanied by port or sherry. I can't remember which because I had ceased imbibing about three glasses before that.

Lentils for luck.

By the time our thousand-course dinner was finished, we realized we'd spent almost five hours at Boccondivino. It was certainly a New Year's dinner to remember. As we left, we marveled at the number of bottles and glasses decorating each table. It was surreal and gluttonous. But I suppose the chances of me ever being in Milan for New Year's again are slim, so I guess it's best to do it right the first time. And if 'right' means devouring endless cheese platters, gulping down sparkling whites and ruby reds, shouting with happy Italians, and breaking a wine glass (oops), then yes-- we achieved something.

I don't remember much about our stroll back to the hotel other than it wasn't as cold as it could have been due to our wine coats, we laughed a lot and took many ridiculous photos, and the people in the room next to us were shouting, "Happy New Year!" at the tops of their lungs for several hours into 2013.

Needless to say, we missed the hotel breakfast the next morning but we did manage to make it back out into Milan for another day of sightseeing. But I think I'll save that story for later. Just the memory of Boccondovino has made me woozy.