Nurburgring

We spent the last day of my brother's visit at the Nurburgring. I'm not much of an automobile enthusiast but even I appreciated all of the fast, fancy cars showboating around the complex. It was mind-blowing to see so many expensive cars in one place.

BMW offers a Ring Taxi service. Up to three people can be chauffeured around the track in an M5 by a professional driver. The other opportunity provided by BMW is co-piloting in an Aston Martin V8 Vantage N24. Without hesitation, my brother decided on the Aston Martin experience.

My Brother's Ride

His lap was scheduled for 2:30 but accidents on the track caused delays. In the event of an accident (frequently), the entire track is shut down for cleaning and maintenance. Loudspeakers announce when the track is ready for drivers again and all of the waiting motorists fist-pump joyfully and rush back out to their cars to enter the line-up when given the all-clear.

Almost ready!

My brother was suited up in race gear and a helmet. Admittedly, I was a bit nervous as I watched him get strapped into the passenger seat. But he was cool as a cucumber, looking as if this was his millionth time soaring through the Eifel Mountains at speeds of almost 300 kilometers.

The ride lasted just 10 minutes but he said it was an amazing once-in-a-lifetime experience. After watching the video from the dashboard-camera and seeing how excited my often-stoic brother was after the lap, I must say that I wanted to jump into the next available racing suit and strap myself into the car. And of course my husband wants his turn as well. 

The co-pilot rides are pricey (almost $400) and they require advance registration. If you have the cash to blow and the desire to zip around the Nurburgring Gran Turismo-style, you should definitely consider it. 

Cars waiting for admission to the Ring.

A Weekend in Antwerp and Brussels

It was so great to see my brother after almost an entire year. We crammed lots of places and activities into his two weeks here and I was sad to see him go at the end of it. We went to all of the standard places (Aachen, Koln, Brussels, Amsterdam) but we also took the opportunity to see some new things.

We went to Antwerp last winter when my sister visited but it was only a brief stop on our way to a beer festival in a smaller town just outside of the city. I wanted my brother to experience Belgium fully so we decided to spend his first weekend here in Antwerp and Brussels. We rented an apartment in Antwerp for the convenience of having two full bedrooms and more space. The Coco-Mat Residence is on a busy street above the Coco-Mat furniture store. The apartment was large and bright, beautifully furnished with interesting pieces from the store. The kitchen was larger than the one in our home and I spent a few blissful moments opening cabinets and drawers, imagining what I would do with all of the space if we lived there.

The apartment was the perfect location for our wanderings around Antwerp. We went to the train station where the architecture still impressed me even though it was my second time seeing it. Based upon lots of suggestions, we also stopped by the Kulminator. It's a famous bar in Antwerp and is consistently voted as one of the top pubs in the world. We arrived at opening time so we didn't have a chance to see it busy. The owners, a husband and wife team, were cordial. The interior is decorated with lots of lush plants and there is a charming little garden at the rear. Classical music trumpeted through the speakers, giving the place a strangely refined tone. We sipped our beers introspectively and decided we were satisfied after a couple of rounds. Maybe it was just the time of day, but I wouldn't put the Kulminator ahead of Cafe Rembrandt in Tongeren. The offerings were expansive but the prices were astronomical compared to lesser-known pubs. I know the Kulminator didn't begin this way, but it's now become a mecca for tourists-- we weren't the only Americans there that afternoon. If you must, stop by for a drink but move on afterward unless you want to leave with empty pockets.

Next, we strolled along the River Scheldt. We missed this part of Antwerp the first time we were here. We ended up in the Oude Werf, Antwerp's oldest neighborhood. The Steen (stone) is all that remains of the 800-year-old Antwerp Castle.

Grote Markt

After a look at the lovely Grote Markt, we had a nice dinner at an outdoor cafe. We were lured by sounds of music and laughter to another square. By sheer luck, we had happened upon the Liberation Ball! Antwerp was liberated by Allied troops in September of 1944. The Liberation Ball is a complete recreation of that time. Some people were decked out like American soldiers while others were dressed in their swing-dance best! The performers crooned music of the era while everyone Lindy Hopped around the dance floor. It was amazing! I only wished I'd known so I could have dressed for the occasion.

Swing Dance at the Liberation Ball

We made the 25-minute drive to Brussels the next morning. We showed my brother the Grand Place and the Manneken Pis statue. Then we quenched our thirst with some lambic beers. The boys decided they wanted to go to Autoworld, a huge museum dedicated to the history of the automobile. Admittedly, I wasn't too interested in this attraction but we did manage to walk through the Cinquantenaire Park on the way. It was filled with sunbathers and picnickers and flanked by Brussels' Arc de Triomphe.

After another Belgian beer break, dinner was served and we were on the way back to Germany.

I'm glad we had another look at Antwerp. To me, the highlight of the weekend was the Liberation Ball. Maybe some swing dancing lessons are in my future.

Adventures in Zadar, Croatia

I was searching for sunny, moderately-priced places to visit since we know our summer days here are numbered. Zadar, Croatia was among the choices listed on the Ryanair site. Without too much consideration, I booked the flight, secured a hotel, and packed a bathing suit and some sunscreen.

We stayed in the Villa Ivana hotel just outside of Zadar. It was more like an apartment, with a fully-functional kitchen and an awesome balcony overlooking the Adriatic. The owners were very friendly and helpful and our stay there was really enjoyable.

Many of Zadar's beaches (including the one in front of our hotel), are rocky. We didn't know that you're supposed to wear special shoes in the water to prevent slipping on the rocks. Fortunately, Villa Ivana had some extras on-hand so we were able to swim without injury. The water isn't as clear as Mallorca's but it was still nice and the temperature was perfect.

The walk into the Old City of Zadar from the hotel took about 40 minutes. It was pleasant enough: walking by the sea, listening to the gentle waves splashing against the docked boats. But it was hot. Oh boy, was it hot. Maybe it's because I've been away from Florida for so long, but I don't remember ever experiencing a heat like that. In Florida, it's usually really humid. The heat in Zadar is arid and suffocating. I began imagining myself wandering around lost in a desert, much like Clark Griswold in National Lampoon's Vacation. By the time we reached town I was hallucinating about waterfalls and oases. It was very, very, very hot.


Zadar's history is interesting and dates back to at least the 9th century BC. Some of the city walls and towers built in the 15th century to protect against attacks from the Turks are still standing today. In some ways, Zadar feels like a city time forgot. The streets in the Old Town are made of shiny marble and ancient, crumbling churches provide the backdrop.




One of the biggest draws for tourists to Zadar is the Sea Organ. It's certainly one of the most unique and interesting things I've ever seen. Organ music is produced by the natural lulling of the waves. I didn't know what to expect. I thought it might sound weird and inharmonious, but it was lovely and soothing.

Another reason to sit on the steps of the Sea Organ is to watch the sunset. Alfred Hitchcock visited Zadar in 1964. He claimed that the sunset in Zadar was the most beautiful he'd ever seen. I haven't been everywhere in the world yet, but I think he was onto something. It was truly breathtaking.

We spent the first two days relaxing by the sea and walking to the Old Town. During one of our rowboat rides, we met a woman from New York who was traveling with her young grandsons. She told us she was originally born in Croatia but her family moved to New York when she was 11. She met her husband, a fellow Croatian, during college in New York. Every summer they come back to Zadar to spend a few months reconnecting with their roots. She generously paid our fare for the ride and then took photos of us posing with her grandchildren. It's moments like this that remind me how small the world is.

View from Elizabet

For our final full day, we decided to take a boat excursion to the Kornati Islands. There are many companies to choose from for the day trips to islands and national parks. We went with the company recommended to us by our hotel. Our boat was called Elizabet and she was a beauty. There were two decks to lounge on and complimentary coffee, lemonade, and wine to sip on as we cruised over the cerulean waters of the Adriatic.

The Kornati archipelago is comprised of over 120 islands, with many of them declared national parks. The Elizabet was set to dock for two hours, allowing us to swim, hike, and wander around to our hearts' content.

Salt Lake

We first made our way to the Salt Lake, fondly described by many a Zadar native as, "our wonderful, natural phenomenon! You must see!" The walk to the lake wasn't exactly pleasant. The scorching sun beat down upon us as we scurried up a gradually-sloping hill. We were sweating and breathless once we reached the lake. The beach was extremely crowded, with beach towels and suntan lotion bottles littering the rocky ground, and some topless Europeans sunning themselves by the water. We dropped our things off and immediately slathered on the sunscreen for our dip in the lake. The water was surprisingly warm and we decided to get out and go back to the lagoon area for a proper swim.

The water in the lagoon was much more refreshing and less crowded. We swam around for a while, looking at the fish and coral through our goggles. After that, we hiked up to a lookout point for some panoramic views of the sea. The two hours went by surprisingly fast and before we knew it we were walking back to board our boat.

We were walking at a leisurely pace, as we had 20 minutes to spare before departure. Suddenly everyone began getting out of the water. My first irrational thought was that there were sharks. After I realized no one was screaming, I noticed that the water was getting very choppy. We continued on to the docks and saw that Elizabet wasn't parked and waiting with the other boats. She was a little further out and we just figured she'd pull in once one of the other boats left. We perched on some rocks as we were joined by fellow waiting passengers. Suddenly the waves began crashing in earnest. All of the boats were swaying from side to side.

We quickly realized that our boat was the only one un-docked. All of the other boats were filled and their passengers gazed at us from the comfort of their sheltered decks. By now, all of the guests of the Elizabet were sitting on the rocks waiting like shipwrecked castaways. We began glancing and shrugging uneasily at each other as the waves crashed up over the docks splashing us. Some of the other English-speaking passengers began talking about a new reality show they'd cleverly thought of: Survivor: Kornati Islands.

Our departure time came and went. Someone asked one of the park rangers what was happening and he explained that the waves were too choppy for any of the boats to leave and until at least one of them left, our boat couldn't dock.

We watched as all of the passengers on the other boats were served their steaming-hot dinners, wondering what the fate of our meals were. Eventually a few of us decided to go back to one of the restaurants on higher ground to order some food. I was paranoid the entire time that our boat was going to suddenly come back, pick up the waiting passengers, and leave us stranded at the restaurant. It wasn't a very relaxing snack.

As soon as we saw one of the boats leave, we raced back to the shore only to wait another 20 minutes. Apparently the position that was vacated wasn't large enough for Elizabet so we had to wait for one more boat to leave.

Finally she came sailing toward us, our beacon of hope (for a hot meal) and our savior from the uncomfortable rock-seats. We all rushed forward as soon as the door was opened and our lukewarm dinner was served hastily.

Needless to say, the ride back was rather choppy. I've never been seasick and, thankfully, I wasn't this time. But if there was ever an occasion to hang your head off the side of a boat, this would have been it. We were supposed to make another stop at a tiny fishing village but because we were now almost two hours behind schedule, we went straight back to Zadar. I don't think anyone was too disappointed after our brief, unexpected adventure as Swiss Family Robinson.

Our flight home was very early the next morning. The Villa Ivana family graciously stocked our refrigerator with coffee, bread, yogurt, and fruit so we could have breakfast before we left. Our cab driver was gregarious (especially for 6:30am) and knowledgeable. He regaled us with interesting facts about Zadar during our ride. One thing that is very evident about the people of Zadar is how proud they are of their up-and-coming city.

"Zadar is the most beautiful place in the world!" he exclaimed. "You have mountains and sea and lagoons. There is the natural phenomenon of the Salt Lake! You can go snow skiing and then go swimming in the very same day. We have everything here!"

I describe Zadar as up-and-coming because the ravages of war are still glaringly present. It suffered greatly from the breakup of the former Yugoslavia. The city was shelled by Serbian forces for a couple years. All of this happened in the early 1990's so it's easy to understand why the people of Zadar are hopeful and proud of their city. As our driver was describing the terrain, he interrupted himself and said, "Oh, and up ahead I will show you a bombed-out house. This is where my friend lost his life in the war." And sure enough, there it was: a building that certainly looked as if it had been hit by a bomb. We somberly gazed out the cab window at the reminder of war's atrocities but we couldn't dwell on it too long because the driver cheerfully said, "And up here-- this is the biggest shopping center for miles around! Isn't it amazing?!"

I think there are lessons to be learned in a place like Zadar. The city and its people have been through countless wars and hard times, but they're all still standing tall and proud. They bond over shared hardships and happier things, like their favorite pastime: basketball. I think the people are remarkable resilient and it was easy to see that from the way our cab driver pointed out a hard reality of the past, but in the same breath, extolled upon the great things happening now in Zadar.

Our time in Zadar was unique and humbling. I can safely say I never really thought about Croatia until I saw it listed on the Ryanair website but I'm so glad we ended up there. I'd do it all over again, just to chat with the locals and see the sunset.

"God bless America! And Michael Phelps!"

The next morning was spent at the Thursday market in Sittard. The produce, fish, flowers, and bread are excellent there and the prices are unbeatable. We sipped coffee and people-watched for a couple hours and then took a stroll around the stalls.

Bananenweizen

After Sittard we moved on to Gangelt. There isn't much to say about this tiny village except that there is a cafe near the Wildlife Park that serves Bananenweizen. This is one of the first beers I drank when we moved here and it remains one of the most refreshing and unique. It sounds like a weird combination, but it's an Erdinger (or any Weissbier) mixed with chilled banana juice. It's definitely not a beer to pound back one after another but it sure is nice to languidly sip one or two on a blisteringly hot day.

Next stop was Tongeren, Beligum's oldest city. I wanted my friends to see all of the old Roman sites and the Tongeren Basilica, another of my favorite churches. The other excuse for going to Tongeren is to drop by its oldest pub, Cafe Rembrandt. We were taken there during our first month here by some great people who have, unfortunately, moved back to the states. But I think of them every time we sit down in the ancient-walled pub with its small, unsuspecting bar and creaky booths. It's perfect.

I'm always excited to see the owner there. He's very friendly and eager to suggest beers. I wanted my friends to try at least one Trappist beer while they were here. They selected wisely with Rochefort 10s. I always have the same at Cafe Rembrandt-- St. Bernardus. The owner came by several times to chat with us and offer samples of other beers. When he brought some cubes of cheese to complement the beers, he asked us if we knew why Belgians like to sprinkle the cheese with celery salt. We didn't have any ideas and he gleefully enlightened us by shouting, "It improves the sex drive, of course!"

We were having too much fun to leave so we decided to eat dinner there. I've now eaten breakfast, lunch, and dinner at the cafe and all of the food is great. As we were finishing our meals an old man appeared with a toolbox. He and the owner exchanged pleasantries and then set to work bolting a donation box to the wall beside the bathroom for non-customers' use. He explained that the box was salvaged from an old church and he seemed very excited to have it in his possession.

The donation suggestion is 50-cents. As soon as the box was on the wall, he and the handyman stood back and admired their work. After our plates were cleared away, he brought each of us a 50-cent piece and then bowed theatrically as he said, "Please ladies, be the first ones to put a donation in the box!" We were so excited to have this 'honor' bestowed upon us and we posed for several photos as we dropped the coins.

The day was coming to a close and we'd already spent almost four hours at the cafe so it was definitely time to say our goodbyes. After we paid the bill, the owner closed the cash register with a bang, smiled broadly, and said, "God bless America! And Michael Phelps!" And with that, we were on our way back home.

The next day was the last day of my friends' visit. I don't think anyone should leave this part of Germany without seeing the Dom in Cologne so we made that our final destination. The Dom is spectacular and it literally takes your breath away when you see it rising in front of you. This was my first time taking the 533 stairs to the top. The view is obstructed by fencing and graffiti is plastered all over the gargoyles and spires. That was definitely disappointing. But it was still pleasant to see the Rhine's lazy meander through the landscape and the breeze was very welcome since it was such a hot day.



I must say that the climb to the top of the Dom wasn't as fun as going to the top of the New Church in Delft. The views are incomparable because Cologne is a more modern city now since much of it was destroyed during the war. Gazing down over Delft's red-tiled roofs and charming scenery is like looking at a beautiful and perfect painting. But you should still make the climb to the top of the Dom when you go.

More steps to climb!

Dom's Spires

We visited the Treasury after our climb and it was as interesting to me the second time around as it was the first. I love looking at all of the reliquaries and artifacts. The collection is very impressive and it really makes you feel as if you're walking back in time.

We were at the Dom most of the day and then we spent a nice couple hours walking along the river and stopping for ice cream.

My friends couldn't have chosen a more perfect week to visit. The weather was astoundingly beautiful during the entire time they were here. It was really hot most days and I don't think it rained once. We were able to go to three countries in just over a week and I can't imagine a better vacation than that!

My brother will be arriving next and I can hardly wait! He will be here for two weeks so we'll have plenty of time to eat, drink, and wander.

After my friends left, my husband returned home from being away for a month. We took a breather for a few days and then packed our bags for Croatia!

We just arrived home yesterday. It was certainly an interesting trip and I can't wait to tell you about it!

Brussels Flower Carpet

Day 5 of my friends' visit here was spent in Valkenburg and Maastricht. It was cold and dreary the last time I was in Valkenburg. The August sunshine during this visit was a nice change. Valkenburg is a tiny village but it's a mecca for tourists during the summer months. Lots of other American tourists joined us as we toured Valkenburg Castle and the Velvet Caves.

Valkenburg

From Valkenburg we made our way to Maastricht. I love this city so much. I'd never heard of Maastricht before we moved here and I'm fairly confident that I never would have known about it otherwise. Maastricht University fills the city with people from all over the world but despite its international population, Maastricht emanates all of the charm one can expect from a cozy European town. The Vrijthof (main square) is still stunning to me, nearly ten months after my first glimpse. There are so many beautiful parks and countless cafes and the scenery is made even more picturesque by its location on the Meuse River. I feel very lucky to live so close to such an amazing city.

The only downside to the visit is that it was a Tuesday and most shops close at 6pm. After spending much of the morning and afternoon in Valkenburg, it was sad for us to bid adieu to Maastricht so soon.

Day 6 was the Brussels Flower Carpet! The Flower Carpet happens every other year on the Grand-Place. It lasts just 5 days and my friends were very fortunate to have visited during this year's display.

This was my second time in Brussels. You may recall that we spent New Year's there. While we were waiting for the fireworks, I stumbled over a low post in the Grand-Place and fell. My husband was holding my hand and, because of the dense crowd, he didn't realize I'd fallen so he continued walking. Since I was still gripping his hand tightly, I was dragged along the cobblestones for a few seconds. The moment was brief but my left knee still bares the scar from that evening in Brussels. Anyway, the second time around was without injury.

The flower carpet was amazing. I can't imagine all of the work that goes into the planning, design, and execution of such an overwhelming display. We went to the top of Town Hall to see the carpet from above. It cost five Euros but it was money well-spent.

Palais Royal de Bruxelles

After the carpet and some lunch we decided to go to the Palais Royal de Bruxelles. The palace is only open to visitors two months out of the year. Admission was free and lots of people were taking advantage of the open house. I was disappointed to learn that the royal family do not actually live in this palace. Their official residence is in Laeken, outside Brussels.

I think it's quite obvious that people don't actually live in the palace. The interior is extremely formal and almost sterile. The rooms we were allowed to pass by looked as if they had been undisturbed for years. The chandeliers were beautiful and the final room, the Mirror Room, was very interesting. The ceiling is decorated with over a million jewel beetle carapaces. The room is a huge contrast to the rest of the palace; it almost seemed like it would fit right in as a setting for The Addams Family.

Brussels was bustling and breathtaking. I'm so glad my friends were able to see the flower carpet. The Grand-Place is one of the most beautiful squares I've ever seen and I can't wait to return with my brother when he visits in a few weeks!

"I will call the police! And the Army!"

The past week-and-a-half has been a complete whirlwind. Friends from back home were here for six days and we went to Amsterdam, Valkenburg, Maastricht, Cologne, Brussels, Aachen, Tongeren, and, it seems, everywhere in between.

First stop: Amsterdam. My friends arrived early Friday morning in Dusseldorf. After a brief nap we took the train to Amsterdam. When the conductor came by to check our tickets, he raised an eyebrow as he handed mine back to me and said, "Amsterdaaaaaam." He repeated the gesture with my friends' tickets and as he continued down the aisle he laughed heartily and exclaimed, "Three wild women going to Amsterdam for the weekend! I will call the police! And the Army!" I thought that was a really good beginning for our weekend.

Our hotel was the Botel on the Amstel River. Since there were three of us, we had to find a triple room at a price that wasn't going to bust our wallets. The Botel was the best option and I thought it would be interesting to stay in the floating hotel. Interesting isn't quite the word I would use to describe it in retrospect.

Bunk beds in the Botel.

First of all, we took the wrong ferry across the river and ended up really far away from the Botel. After walking around aimlessly for a few minutes we asked a kind passerby for help and he directed us back over the river to another ferry. Once we were on the correct ferry, a 10-minute ride across the murky river brought us to the Botel. Emblazoned upon its side was a large banner advertising the cheap rooms ("Free TV!"). We checked into our room and were surprised to see bunk beds... I got the one on top. The bathroom was the same size as the one you'd find in a small motorhome. Showers were spent dodging the alternating scalding hot and frigid bursts of water from the shower as you desperately tried to keep the dingy shower curtain from rubbing up against your body.

But who goes to Amsterdam to spend the entire time in the hotel anyway? All we did was sleep there and it actually wasn't too bad (aside from heat and humidity inside the room and being kept awake all night by the desperate cries of swans outside the cabin window).

We missed our dinner reservation for Friday night because of the ferry debacle but we ended up at a nice place that served excellent fondue and decent wine. We called it in early so we could begin Saturday bright and early.

Amsterdam

The last time I saw Amsterdam was in the winter and I thought it was beautiful then but it was magnificent in the summer sun. All of the outdoor cafes were open and boats filled with people sipping wine and eating cheese floated on the canals. It was truly lovely.

This was my third time at the Anne Frank House. While I do think it's an important stop for anyone visiting Amsterdam the first time, I don't think it's necessary to see it more than once. And especially not three times in nine months. August was much more crowded than back during winter and as we weaved our way around inside I found myself wanting to snap my fingers and hurry people along as I shouted, "Yep, there's the bookcase. Here's the kitchen. This was her room. Keep it moving." Next time I'm entertaining friends from back home, I think I'll sit it out and wait at a cafe.

We spent lots of time walking around the city and stopping for photos of the scenery. Lunch was eaten beside one of the canals and we also took a stroll through the Red Light District (during the afternoon) and window-shopped in the Jordaan neighborhood.

We happened upon an amazing tapas place called Manzano and that's where we settled for dinner. The courtyard was charming and the price was right for two liters of sangria, six or seven tapas, and a huge dessert tray we shared. We also threw in some mojitos for good measure. It was a little off the beaten path but definitely worth the walk.

After some Belgian beers at another cafe, we retired to our floating hotel with full bellies and slightly dizzy heads. Those two attributes made it a little easier to fall asleep to the swaying of the river and the  squawking of the swans.

Squawkers.

We left early Sunday morning and spent the rest of the day relaxing at home, planning our itinerary for the rest of the week.

Monday's destination was Aachen. It's a quick drive from here and we spent a pleasant day walking around the town and admiring its beautiful cathedral (still one of my all-time favorites). Dinner was closer to home, in Sittard.

We were only on Day 4 with much more ahead, but I'll leave those adventures for next time!

A Few Minor Setbacks

Friends, I'm writing to you from an unexpected location today. I'm not sipping wine by the shores of the Mediterranean. I'm also not sitting in a pub in Scotland or touring a vineyard in Italy. I'm at the local library. Yesterday my loyal laptop of over six years decided it was time to call it a life. It crashed and burned in the middle of a Skype session with my mom.

What else has happened since our return from Ireland? Well, my bicycle was stolen. Poor Arline was snatched from a train station. A new bike is on order. It should have been here at the beginning of the week but it's now Friday and I'm still waiting. I feel truly enculturated into Dutch society now that I've experienced the loss of a bicycle. I suppose it was only a matter of time.

In spite of recent setbacks, the German "summer" days are passing along and I can't believe it's already August. Sometimes the weather is nice and sunny; we've even had several UV index warnings. But after getting a sunburn on Monday it's possible to wake up to dreary skies and a 15-degree temperature drop on Wednesday. I remember how nice and somewhat constant the weather was when we arrived in October and I'm hoping for the same when it comes around again.

In the meantime I'm preparing for visits from some friends and my brother in the next two months. It's very exciting to have people to show around and it will be fun to see everything anew from fresh sets of eyes.

So RIP to my laptop and Arline. Hopefully nothing else is stolen or breaks for a while!